Peter Symons Brewing since 1998 Graduate Certificate in Brewing – Ballarat University Siebel Institute (Chicago) WBA Concise Course BJCP Recognised Beer Judge Researching old beers since 2009 Self published: In the Noel Butlin Archive, ANU, Canberra 

No content

History Mashing – Options Fermentation – Yeast – Options Process Aids Coming Up 

Lager means different things to different people Australia : Lager is a schooner of NEW/Carlton Draught/XXXX Bavaria : Helles/Dunkel/Bock/Keller Bier to Reinheitsgebot standards Czechia: Pilsener Urquell, Budvar, Dark Lager North America: Bud/Miller/Coors UK/Euro: Carling/Carlsberg/Stella/Heineken And so on… About the only common factor for these lagers is fermentation with a Frohberg type yeast. [like W 34/70] BJCP judge/competition entrant : a range of styles and substyles each with unique attributes Home Brewer - whatever they fancy brewing 

History 

Lageren – To Store • Historic Lager Fermentation – Primary – open fermentation, slow and cool – Secondary – racked off yeast into tanks – ruh or rest stage - maturation – Cold Conditioning Winter 6 months or more • Modern Megabrewers – Stored for a few weeks then packaged – Time = $ / £ 

CZ National Museum of Brewing t.ly/YfOaO ‘Traditional’ Cold Storage • Underground Cellars – kept cool by Ice. • Harvested in winter from frozen lakes and rivers. • Later cooled by Artificial Refrigeration 

CZ National Museum of Brewing t.ly/YfOaO ‘Traditional’ Cold Storage • Underground Cellars – kept cool by Ice. • Harvested in winter from frozen lakes and rivers. • Later cooled by Artificial Refrigeration 2013 Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour – Cellars. P Symons 

The Romance 2013 Pilsner Urquell Brewery Tour – Cellars. P Symons 

Traditional Fermentation Bottom Fermentation Žatec Brewery, Czech Republic Beer in 6 months Pure strain Bottom Yeast 

1896—98 NSW Lager Bier Brewing Co. State of the art – imported US Technology from The Pfaudler Vacuum Fermentation Co. of Rochester, New York. Braumeister - Aug J Metzler 

Pfaudler Vacuum Fermentation Co. Tafel 16 F. Schwackhöfer, Malzfabrication und Bierbrauerei, p199. Partial layout showing the Vacuum System FF System Late 1880s Patented process and casks from Rochester, New York, USA Phoenix Brewery, Pittsburgh, PA Pure Culture Bottom Yeast Beer in 6 weeks 

Lagering and Carbonating SLSA, 663.309944 N532 d, 1898, Special Collection Carbonating Cellar Racking 

1896 NSW Lager Bier Brewery SLSA, 663.309944 N532 d, 1898, Special Collection 

1898 Sydney Lager Bier O.G.1.052 F.G. 1.021 EBC 9 IBU 24 ABV 4.2% 24 L 75% Mash efficiency Water – Yellow Balanced profile % Materials 83 2-row Pale malt 17 Brown Rice Flakes or Brown Rice Malt Syrup Single Infusion Mash 73°C for 60 mins. Boil 70 mins 16 IBU Hallertau pellets @ 70 mins 7 IBU Hallertau pellets @ 20 mins 1 IBU Hallertau pellets 20 min hop stand at 80°C to emulate a hop-jack Yeast WLP800 Pilsner Lager Choose your favourite bottom fermentation regime Carbonate 3 vol. Krausen optional Pfaudler Co., Box 33, Metzler’s Estimate, Apr 18, 1896 Dr Helms Analysis from SMH May 24, 1898. https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/page/1356803 

Late 19th Century Australian Colonial Lager Overall Impression Malty ~ 4—5% ABV Appearance Pale Gold, Brilliant, Good Head retention Aroma Hoppy Flavour Good hop character Mouthfeel High Carbonation, Full Bodied draught or bottled beer served cold Typically CO2 dispense, Full Bodied from high final gravity. Fermented with a bottom pure culture strain of yeast. Pure Malt and Hops! Materials: Malt, Rice, and Bohemian or Bavarian hops. Bottled beers also used Sugar. Pasteurised. 

Mashing 

Barley - Malt • German or Czech under-modified 2-row • English well-modified 2-row • US 6-row with high diastatic power • European and US adjunct of choice – Rice • Australian malt substitute – Cane Sugar • Adjunct – with malt and/or enzymes • Substitute – replace malt 

Mashing - 1 • Single Infusion is not usually associated with ‘traditional lager’ production • Single or Double or Triple Decoction as a ‘traditional’ Continental approach to dealing with under modified malts. Rob covered Decoction https://youtu.be/8nGMQzJ6GiE?si=Yf74I72ZLukYfvA5 • Semi decoction AU, and limited decoction UK, similar historic ideas/techniques used to improve extract from poor quality malt, steely ends etc. Not particularly about flavour melanoidins etc. Much more about efficiency and body • Cereal/Double mashing US, needed to gelatinise starches in raw grains, ~15% malt added (or enzymes) then boiled, returned to the main mash to produce a rising infusion mash profile. (similar effect to decoctions raising the mash to rest temperatures.) 

Mashing - 2 • Hochkurz/Step Mashing popular from the 1930s to current. Heineken’s Rotterdam 20 hL Pilot Brewery, experimented on a Pilsner. Hochkurz is a lot quicker and therefore more energy efficient than decoction. • Homebrewers can raise temperature by adding decoction/cereal mash/hot liquor or heat to the main mash • Step Mashing is a flexible way to ‘modify’ fermentability, head retention, and body. Prima Pils 

1883 English Dry Lager OG 1.034 TG 1.003 4% ABV Extract 3 Qr 6-row malt* @ 74 lb = 222 lb 168 lb Gelatinised rice = 47 lb 1 cwt Glucose = 37 lb = 306 lb extract /12.2 lb/brl = 25 brl [double the rice and no glucose] Hop 4 lb/ Qr and ¼ lb/brl dry hop Two-thirds Bavarian (½ new ½ yearlings) one-third good new English Hops. DH Finest Bavarians. Use a vigorous yeast from a previous batch to eliminate sugars for dryness * Well modified Mashing Add some of the malt then the ‘flaked rice’ and then rest of malt Stiff Initial 138°F Mash in 10—15 mins Underlet 180°F rakes 10 mins, underlet 196°F then again 212°F Rest 2¼ hours ~158°F [70°C] Mash out 164°F Sparge 185°F Vigorous 3 hour boil - Hops one-third @ 1 hr, 2 hr and 30 mins before turnout [Optional add fine amber resin (pitch) for ‘full and pronounced Lager flavour’] Pitch at 56—57°F, 8—9 days @ 65°F max, continually roused (aeration), to remove CO2 and on day 6 add yeast nutrient/flour. If fermentation slows too much - add ‘Krausen.’ METHOD OF BREWING ENGLISH DRY LAGER BEER By the top fermentation system, without the use of Ice THOMAS PERRY, F.C.S. 1883 

1965 Eldridge Pope - König Lager • 1958 Christopher Pope sent to Heineken, Amsterdam, to learn to brew lager * • 1959 König Lager brewed from lager malt, continental hops, and yeast from Copenhagen (Carlsberg) * • Materials included Lager Malt, Rice Flakes, and ‘Solprana’ from Munton & Fison “a proteolytic extract for mash tun use, to assist control and eliminate haze-forming protein fractions.” # • Infusion Mash at 60°C then an underlet to raise to 65°C for main rest. Sparge 74°C * Thomas Hardy’s Brewer - The Story of Eldridge Pope & Co., 1988, John Seekings, p112, & # The Scotsman, Sep 30, 1957, p9 

1965 König Lager O.G.1.034 F.G. 1.008 EBC 6 IBU 13 ABV 3.4% 20 L 75% Mash efficiency Water – Yellow Dry profile % Materials 77 Lager Malt 11 Pilsner Malt 8 Rice Flakes 4 Light Dry Malt Extract 1 g/L Crystal Medium 300 EBC Step Infusion Mash In 60°C then 65°C for 60 mins. Sparge 74°C Boil 70 mins all pellets 0.4 g/L Fuggle 4.5% α @ 70 mins 0.55 g/L Styrian Goldings 4.0% α @ 30 mins 0.55 g/L Styrian Goldings 4.0% α @ 10 mins Yeast Wyeast 2042 Danish Lager 75% Choose your favourite bottom fermentation regime Carbonate 2.5—3.0 vol. Krausen optional Dorset History Centre, D-ELP, 1965 Brewing Book 

US Adjunct Brewing Yuengling Brewery, Pottsville, Pennsylvania 

1893 US Double Mashing - R Wahl A to vary the temperature of the malt mash, and/or B the duration of the protein rest stand, and/or C the speed of raising the temperature, and/or D the duration of the stand—longer more maltose produced, before adding the boiling cereal mash to lift the temperature to 72°C. 

Exogenous Enzymes • ß-Glucanase for improved extract, haze reduction, run off and filterability. • Amyloglucosidase used where adjuncts may dilute the availability of enzymes in the Mash Tun or for increased fermentability by producing glucose [low carb beer anyone] 1968 GB1115011 Brewing process and beer of low calorific value and extended resistance to haze development https://worldwide.espacenet.com/publicationDetails/biblio?II=5&ND=3&adjacent=true&locale=en_EP&FT=D&date =19680522&CC=GB&NR=1115011A&KC=A 

1948 US Cooker Mashing after Nugey Cooker Mashes, A L Nugey, Brewers Journal, May 15, 1945, p34—35, 45—47 • Proper mash pH important 5.4 lager and 5.8 ale • Atmospheric Cooker Mash Boiled 18—20 mins, longer for coarse corn grits ENZ-MOL enzymes added Note (2) A long peptonisation period was needed due to the quality of the malting barley variety available post repeal 

1949 New York Bock O.G.1.061 F.G. 1.014 EBC 20 IBU 19 ABV 6.4% 20 L 75% Mash efficiency Water – Brown Balanced profile % Materials 82 Munich Malt 17 EBC 13 Rice Flakes 5 Instant Polenta Rising Infusion Mash In 63°C 60 min, up to 68°C rest 30 mins. Up to 75°C rest 10 mins. Sparge 75°C Boil 70 mins all pellets 0.85 g/L Fuggle 4.5% α @ 70 mins 0.3 g/L Cluster 6.1% α @ 30 mins 0.3 g/L Cluster 6.1% α @ 20 mins 0.5 g/L Spalt 3.0% α hopstand 80°C 20 minutes Yeast Mangrove Jacks M76 Bavarian 76% Choose your favourite bottom fermentation regime Carbonate 2.5—3.0 vol. Krausen optional Unknown New York Brewery, Brewing Book 

European Lager • Heineken (HBM) brewing records are available online https://archief.amsterdam/inventarissen/scans/834/3.2.4.2.4.1/start/0/limit/10/highlight/1 • From the 1930s HBM’s Rotterdam Pilot Brewery, brewed experimental and small batches of beer. • Rising Infusion mashing (Hochkurz) was a way to use fully modified 2-rowed malt that was more energy efficient and less time consuming than double or triple decoction. • This process is well suited to modern single vessel home brewing systems See also - Decoding Heineken’s pre-WW2 Rotterdam Pilot Brewery Beers https://youtu.be/uLbeshhj1JQ 

Heineken Export Pilsener - mashing Double Decoction Sparge and draw off main and second worts Chart derived from Heineken Brouwjournalen van de proefziederij, 1935 - 1957 held at the Amsterdamse Stadtsarchief, document number 1785-1792, page 19. 

1938—39 Heineken Experimental Processes Hochkurz Mash [High & Short] – Rising Infusion – Step mash – Needs a well modified malt – Starts at β rest – A lot quicker than decoction 100% Pilsener malt Beta amylase rest Alpha amylase rest Mash out Longer duration more fermentable wort Shorter duration less fermentable wort 30—60 minutes until starch test negative Nominal 30 minutes Hochkurzmaischverfahren May 4, 1938 

Fermentation 

How Fast do You need the Beer? Fermentation 

Yeast Choice Strain Advantages Remarks Kveik (Voss/Lutra) Very Quick Not very lagery. More of a Blonde Ale Lallemand NOVALAGER, MJ M24 Quick, No Sulphur, minimal Diacetyl, some esters depends Perhaps better for non ‘traditional’ styles? Fermentis W 34/70 Solid dependable wide temperature range Liquid WLP830, WY2124 Needs a large starter for cold pitching temperatures Pitching rates Dry - follow manufacturers recommendations g/L no starter Liquid – overpitch 2* with a starter ‘Lager’ yeasts based on Frohberg Type II like 34/70 much of a muchness – some a bit more sulphury, some a bit more diacetyl 

Fermentation Options • Traditional cold 8—10°C ramp for D rest +2 to 3°C – takes a good while, say minimum 6 weeks • Narziss/Mike ‘Tasty’ McDole start cold – Ramp up temperature as gravity decreases ~2 weeks • Pressure – Ferment at 12—15 PSI, 17—20°C ~2 weeks and done • Non ‘Traditional’ yeast – ~2 weeks and done – Could combine with pressure! All make lager - perhaps of subtly different qualities 

1956 Heineken ‘Dortmunder Union’ • Why did Heineken brew a Dort? ‘Bestemd voor kerstbier personeel.’ • Brewed according to Dortmunder Union Beer Scheme – single decoction mash • In the 1990s Jackson & Protz have NL Dort as being maltier, darker and stronger, 6—7% ABV when compared to the Dortmund DUB. https://archief.amsterdam/inventarissen/scans/834/3.2.4.2.4.8/start/170/limit/10/highlight/10 KLAM04116000180—183 

1956 Heineken Dortmunder Fermentation Pitch @ 45°F [7°C] Let rise to 49°F [9.4°C] Cool on Day 9 to 40°F [4.5°C] Lager for 60 days @ 32°F [0°C] 

1956 Heineken ‘Dortmunder Union’ OG 1.058 FG 1.012 EBC 11 IBU 26 ABV 6% Batch 20 L 75% mash efficiency Water – Yellow Balanced [0.19 g/L Gypsum added to kettle] % Grist Voyager 2-row Malt 80.0 ATLAS Latrobe Pilsner Malt 20.0 Munich Schooner 17 EBC Single Infusion Mash 65°C 75 mins. Or a single decoction Mash in 59°C, Decoction portion 15 min @ 72 then Boil 15 min. Return Rest 30 min. Sparge 77°C Boil 70 mins. Pellets 6 α 0.34 g/L Saaz @ 70 mins 0.68 g/L Saaz @ 60 mins 0.68 g/L Saaz @ 30 mins Yeast WLP830 German Lager or 2 packs MJ M76 Bavarian Lager Pitch at 7°C let rise to 9.3°C then to 4.4°C on day 9. Racking gravity ~ 1.016 Lager at 0—1°C for 6 weeks. Terminal Gravity ~ 1.014 Naturally Carbonate ~ 2.5 vol. 

Tasty/Narziss Method ‘One alternative is the so- called Narziss fermentation. In this procedure the first two-thirds of the fermentation is done at 8— 10°C (46—50°F). During the final third of fermentation, the temperature is allowed to increase to 20°C (68°F), after which the beer is transferred to cold storage.’ * * Diacetyl: Formation, Reduction, and Control George Fix Brewing Techniques’ Jul/Aug 1993. Fast Lager Fermentations Mike “Tasty” McDole HomebrewCon16 °C 17 14 12 10 18°C 

Quick Lager Fermentation Calculator https://brewthelookingglass.com/lager-fermentation-calculator/#calculator https://youtu.be/LUe0xROG_Hw 

Pressure Fermented Lager • Steve covered Pressure Fermentation - Under Pressure https://youtu.be/wPDyO9cUnBc?si=k4uGuS0O5VjUJ5bu • Pressure Fermentation - could do with no temperature control but probably better outcome with control – Apartment Brewer - 12 PSI warm 20—22°C possibly more sulphur produced than a traditional 14 day fermentation ? – Malt Miller - 15 PSI 10—25°C or more, 7 Days, then 7 Days cold 2 different yeasts WLP802 Budvar liquid, few more esters & 34/70 dry – No need for a diacetyl rest – insurance bump the temperature up towards end if fermented coolish ~14°C or add ALDC? – Could also use NOVALAGER under pressure 

‘Lager’ Fermentation Options Temperature Control Needed Advantages Disadvantages Lagering Weeks Traditional Cold Yes Simple Takes time 6—12 Warmer W34/70 Yes Quicker * None? 3—4 Narziss/Tasty Yes Speeds up primary fermentation * Need to monitor gravity and temperature 0? Pressure (12—14 PSI) No But … Reduced O2 exposure Speeds up primary fermentation Reduced Sulphur & Diacetyl production Requires a pressure vessel and spunding valve $$ ££ Dry Hopping a bit more tricky 1? Carbonated Beer Closed transfer from FV to Keg * Speeding up may increase esters and higher alcohols but reduce Sulphur and Diacetyl 

Diacetyl Removal Issues • Cold fermentation tends to cause diacetyl • Leaving the increase in temperature to a D rest too late when the yeast is knackered and not able to deal with the diacetyl • Cold crashing too soon drops out the yeast leaves diacetyl in the beer • Adding fresh Krausen helps clean up diacetyl • Alpha Acetolactate Decarboxylase - ALDC enzyme – relatively expensive, add before cold crashing • Yeast choice - Lallemand NOVALAGER - small diacetyl production – an option 

Fermentation Matthew Herrold (Mean Brews) ‘Depends on the yeast. Overpitch twice the minimum from the MoreBeer calculator. Ferment about 10-11°C. I use a tilt to see when the ferment starts slowing then increase a degree at a time to about 15°C. Let it sit there 1 week for small beers, 2 weeks for bigger beers. Transfer to keg. Cold crash in the keg under CO2 pressure (I fear O2 ingress by crashing in the fermenter and volume shrinkage). Lager for a month in the keg before entering [competition] or more for bocks and doppelbocks’ Barry Cranston (Champion Australian Home Brewer) ‘ Cold fermentation slightly warmer maturation. Use the manufacturer’s recommended pitching rate for dry yeast g/L’ MoreBeer Calculator https://www.morebeer.com/content/yeast_pitch_calculator?srsltid=AfmBOoqB8Nckvrq7hDPjXzANqV7M5r7xk yQ3fuY2oOHDH5ncsLpdYymd 

Process Aids 

Nicht - Reinheitsgebot • Enzymes in the mash • Acidification of mash Lactic/Phosphoric Acid • Carrageenan/Irish Moss/Whirlfloc/Protofloc • ALDC enzyme • Biofine Clear/Gelatine/Isinglass/Lumps of wood [Beech chips] • Forced Carbonation 

Conclusions • Lots of different ways to brew a ‘lager’ • Personal brewers’ philosophy is more evident in lager than ale brewing • Choice of mashing method with modern malts not critical • I suggest that your approach depends on how much time you have, the flavour profile that you want to achieve, and your desired quality goals And remember what the Drinker thinks of as Lager is Lager - no matter how it was produced! 

Pod/Vi/Bib/liography Australian ‘Cooking Lager’ ~10 min mark Crisp an overview of brewing lager https://crispmalt.com/news/an-overview-of- brewing-lager/ NOVALAGER Yeast - The next BIG thing in brewing??? Lallemand - Bintani - Lager Yeast https://youtu.be/zkrhck-HGig How to Brew Any Lager Fast https://youtu.be/LUe0xROG_Hw 1883 A full disclosure of the method of brewing English dry lager beer by the top fermentation system https://books.google.com.au/books/about/A _full_disclosure_of_the_method_of_brewi.ht ml?id=rvAHAAAAQAAJ&redir_esc=y Historic German and Austrian Beers for the Home Brewer Andreas Krennmair BYO Fast Lagers Denny Conn, Jan-Feb 2017 https://byo.com/article/fast-lagers/ Podcast Episode 392: Zichovec Nods to Czech Tradition While Exploring Modern Craft Beer https://beerandbrewing.com/podcast- episode-392-martin-urban-adam-huml-and- honk-petru-of-zichovez/ What is Lager? Peter Symons Basic Brewing Podcast Aug 1 2024 https://traffic.libsyn.com/secure/basicbrewi ng/bbr08-01-24whatislager.mp3 https://youtu.be/fOhH81Vyq1U 

Brewing Traditional Beers Tritun - Books Questions 

But True Blue Brews is more than a scholarly exploration, it’s a practical guide for enthusiasts and brewers alike. Featuring 26 recipes each one guaranteed to stand the test of time. Lulu Print on Demand. Check for discount codes. w: tritun-books e: [email protected] Facebook: @bronzedbrews YouTube Tritun Books Tritun - Books Over time the grains of truth that underpin current Australian Beer history have become embellished and distorted. Drawing on meticulous research and expert analysis of historical brewing data spanning from 1820 to 1920, True Blue Brews explodes some long-held myths, offering a fresh perspective on the evolution of Australian beer. - Discover who first brewed Lager in Australia. - Decipher the enigma of the Foster Brothers. - Explore the profound influence of A J Metzler. - Delve into the fascinating emergence of Australian Bitter Ale