to human vision often provide much faster maximum apertures Offer very good selective focus capability are often the cheapest lenses available Great for portraits, low light situations, general photography (50mm-ish)
view than normal or tele lenses Offer less magnification than normal or tele lenses Offer more apparent depth of Field than normal or tele lenses Are easier to hand-hold than normal or telephoto lenses Provide more of a feeling of ‘space’ and depth make the viewer feel more a part of the action great for landscapes, architecture, interiors may display distortion at edges - ie ‘gumby Head’ (less than 50mm)
than normal or w/a lenses Offer more magnification than normal or w/a lenses Offer more apparent depth of Field than normal or w/a lenses Are more difficult to hand-hold than normal or w/a lenses Provide a feeling of compressed ‘space’ and depth make the viewer feel more isolated from the action great for sports, wildlife, portraits, situations where you can’t be close to the subject (greater than 50mm)
subject II. ISO - the sensitivity of the sensor or film to light III. Aperture - the amount of light a lens will allow through to the sensor this is almost always adjustable IV. Shutter Speed - the amount time light is allowed to strike the sensor this is almost always adjustable
lower noise (grain) ability to use slower shutter speed or larger aperture more “blurring’ ability higher ISO’s provide: flatter, muted colors - esp reds and yellows higher noise (grain) ability to use faster shutter speed or smaller aperture more “action-freezing” ability
field (background out of focus) ability to isolate the subject ability to use faster shutter speed or lower ISO Smaller apertures provide: extended depth of field (background more in focus) ability to make everything more sharp ability to use slower shutter speed or higher ISO
to “freeze’ action may require a larger aperture or higher ISO Slower Shutter speeds provide the ability to blur action may require a smaller aperture or lower ISO
human movement 1/500th will freeze most sports action If you’re using a telephoto, your shutter speed should be close to your focal length (200mm - 1/200th sec) 1/15th - 1/30th is about as slow as most people can hand-hold The higher the number, the shorter the exposure and the better the ‘action freeze’ capability
the aperture f/8 on normal-to-w/a lenses will give substantial depth of field Always use the largest aperture (lowest number) when you want to isolate the subject or get the fastest shutter speed stay away from the really small apertures (numbers above f/11) unless you absolutely need to use them
shutter speed and aperture based on light and ISO settings Aperture Priority Mode (A or Av): You choose aperture and the camera chooses shutter speed based on light and ISO settings Shutter Priority (S or Tv): you select shutter speed and the camera chooses an aperture based on light and ISO settings Manual (M): You select both shutter speed and aperture based on in-camera or hand-held meter, or experience based on light and ISO settings
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