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Decoding Diversity in the Food System: Wheat and Bread in North America

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1. Decoding Diversity in the Food System: Wheat and Bread in North America Phil Howard Michigan State University
6. uniformity diversity
7. uniformity diversity International Panel of Experts on Sustainable Food Systems, 2016: From Uniformity to Diversity: A Paradigm Shift from Industrial Agriculture to Diversified Agroecological Systems
8. • genes • varieties & breeds • species uniformity diversity International Panel of Experts on Sustainable Food Systems, 2016: From Uniformity to Diversity: A Paradigm Shift from Industrial Agriculture to Diversified Agroecological Systems
9. • genes • varieties & breeds • species • timing uniformity diversity International Panel of Experts on Sustainable Food Systems, 2016: From Uniformity to Diversity: A Paradigm Shift from Industrial Agriculture to Diversified Agroecological Systems
10. Carlsberg Group (Copenhagen, Denmark) Heineken (Amsterdam, Netherlands) AB InBev (Leuven, Belgium) SABMiller (London, United Kingdom) • genes • varieties & breeds • species • timing • ownership • location/geography • ingredients/diets Global Beer Firm Headquarters, 2015 uniformity diversity
11. Hillandale Egg Farms, Iowa Cal-Maine Foods Inc., Arkansas Sparboe Farms, Minnesota Country Eggs Inc., California Luberski Inc., California Alta Dena Dairy Challenge Dairy Driftwood Dairy Hidden Villa Ranch California Ranch Fresh Bayview Mi Pueblo Becky Cal Egg Nulaid Sun Valley Wagon Trail Sam's Shurfresh Shamrock Foods Sparboe Farms Liborio Market Glenview Farms Pacific Coast James Farms Glenview Cardenas Market Kemps Lund Dutch Farms Shoreland Farm Fresh Traffic- anda Sunshine Hillandale Boom- sma's Ralph's Sunny Farms Hillandale Farms Sunny Meadow Whole- some Farms Farmer's Gems E&M Ranch Yucaipa Valley Country Eggs The 2010 Multi-State Salmonella Outbreak in Eggs chicken feed Recalled egg brands distributed to 22 states 1,469 illnesses; 550 million eggs recalled West Creek Albert- sons NuCal Foods, California Data FDA and CDC, September, 2010 Lucerne Mountain Dairy Albertson Wright County Egg, Iowa Moark LLC, California Phil Howard, Michigan State University
12. Herbruck’s: 12th largest egg producer in the U.S. • 60% of Michigan’s eggs • All McDonald’s eggs east of the Mississippi River • 3 different brands, plus supermarket private labels
20. 45% 6% 15% 34% 2012 U.S. Bread Market Share Other & Store Brands Data: Flowers Foods, 2013
21. Thomas’ Nature’s Harvest Arnold Brownberry Orowheat Ball Park Marinela Bimbo Goodbye Gluten Maier’s Beefsteak Mrs. Baird’s Heiner’s Grandma Sycamore’s Home-Maid Bread Master Rainbo Mickey Old Country Taystee Holsum* Old Home Canada Bread Dempster’s Francisco Villaggio Bon Matin POM Vachon Ben’s Olafson’s Nature’s Own Nature’s Pride Wonder Cobblestone Bread Co. Butternut Country Kitchen Sunbeam Bunny Captain John Derst’s Roman Meal European Bakeries Mrs. Freshley’s Blue Bird Barowsky’s Whitewheat Hillbilly Holsum ButterKrust Evangeline Maid Betsy Ross Dandee Mary Jane Aunt Hattie’s Dave’s Killer Bread Alpine Valley Bread Pepperidge Farm Ecce Panis Brands Owned by the Leading North American Bread Firms Bimbo Bakeries Flowers Foods Campbell Soup Co. Home Pride Merita Sara Lee Earthgrains Butter-Krust McGavin’s Sunshine Smart Buttercup Venice Bakery Durivage Silver Hills
22. Thomas’ Nature’s Harvest Arnold Brownberry Orowheat Ball Park Marinela Bimbo Goodbye Gluten Maier’s Beefsteak Mrs. Baird’s Heiner’s Grandma Sycamore’s Home-Maid Bread Master Rainbo Mickey Old Country Taystee Holsum* Old Home Canada Bread Dempster’s Francisco Villaggio Bon Matin POM Vachon Ben’s Olafson’s Cobblest Bread C Bunny Mrs. Freshle Hillbill Alpine Va Bread Bimbo Bakeries Campbell Soup Sara Lee Earthgrains Butter-Krust McGavin’s Sunshine Smart Buttercup Venice Bakery Durivage Silver Hills
23. Nature’s Own Nature’s Pride Wonder Cobblestone Bread Co. Butternut Country Kitchen Sunbeam Bunny Captain John Derst’s Roman Meal European Bakeries Mrs. Freshley’s Blue Bird Barowsky’s Whitewheat Hillbilly Holsum ButterKrust Evangeline Maid Betsy Ross Dandee Mary Jane Aunt Hattie’s Dave’s Killer Bread Alpine Valley Bread ing North American Bread Firms Flowers Foods Home Pride Merita
24. Villaggio Pepperidge Farm Ecce Panis Campbell Soup Co. ense in selected states
25. 2010 2000 2005 2015 Lepage Bakeries $370M Derst Baking Co. Holsum Saputo Bakery $103M Alpine Valley Bread Co. $120M Dave’s Killer Bread $275M Hostess (selected assets) $355M Sara Lee and Earthgrains brands in California Butterkrust Italian Home Bakery Canada Bread $1.7B Weston Foods (U.S. division) $2.4B Sara Lee $959 M Coopersmith $193 M Redding French Bakery Timeline of Significant Bread Firm Acquisitions, 1996—2015 Ecco Panis CAMPBELL SOUP CO. Metz Baking $625 M Sun Luis Sourdough Orowheat & Thomas (from Weston) Mrs. Baird’s Pacific Pride Olafson’s Baking Co. FLOWERS FOODS Butter-Krust $72M A La Francaise Home Baking Co. Earthgrains $2.8B GRUPO BIMBO Ideal Baking Co.
26. Flowers: 44 bakeries Bimbo: 70 bakeries
27. Yates Mill, North Carolina Milling
29. 0 18 35 53 70 1981 1983 1985 1987 1989 1991 Data: Hendrickson and Heffernan 2002 U.S. market share of top four firms in flour milling
30. 95% of North American industry capacity 48 companies 170 mills
32. 12% 44% 44% joint venture ownership share
35. Farming
36. wheat.org Leading wheat producers (metric tons) Statista 2015/2016
37. wheat.org
38. wheatworld.org
39. 12-M170 Acres of All Wheat Harvested for Grain as Percent of Harvested Cropland Acreage: 2012 U.S. Department of Agriculture, National Agricultural Statistics Service United States 15.6 Percent 0 100 Miles 0 100 Miles 0 200 Miles Percent Less than 5 5 - 9 10 - 24 25 - 39 40 - 59 60 or more 2012 Census of Agriculture
40. 1987 1997 2007 404 693 910 Median acres of wheat harvested in U.S. McDonald et al. (USDA ERS) 2013
41. 0 4,000,000 8,000,000 12,000,000 16,000,000 Acres of wheat harvested by farm size, United States in 2012 (n = 147,632) 25 to 49 = 20k farms 50 to 99 100 to 249 250 to 499 500 to 999 1000 to 1999 2000 to 2999 3000 to 4999 5000 or more acreage class Data: USDA Census of Agriculture
42. 0 4,000,000 8,000,000 12,000,000 16,000,000 Acres of wheat harvested by farm size, United States in 2012 (n = 147,632) 25 to 49 = 20k farms 50 to 99 100 to 249 250 to 499 500 to 999 1000 to 1999 2000 to 2999 3000 to 4999 5000 or more acreage class Data: USDA Census of Agriculture 66% 22% 11%
44. Resistance Grainstorm, Toronto, ON
48. Bob’s Red Mill Milwaukie, OR
49. Wegmans supermarket Pittsford, NY locally sourced Einkorn wheat
50. The Onion (Satire): New OmniGrain Cheerios Made With Every Existing Grain On Earth
52. “[General Mills marketing manager Alan Cunningham] explained that the company simply wanted to capitalize on the ancient-grains trend while also making the cereal taste good—hence the [added] sugar.” - Vauhini Vara, The New Yorker, 2014