Trash Magazine

Transcript

1. FREE STUFF FREE STUFF Save Money on Save Money on Your Next Project Your Next Project CREATE A CREATE A Rubbish Project Rubbish Project FUN QUIZ FUN QUIZ THE GLASS THE GLASS HOUSE HOUSE And Other And Other Cool Projects! Cool Projects! What’s Going on in What’s Going on in This Garbage World This Garbage World Local Businesses That Local Businesses That Are Doing The Most Are Doing The Most 1
2. sTickers MADE FROM OLD MAGAZINES :)
3. Fashion Waste 8–13 (Why Brands Destory Merch + Expert Interview) Library Loot 6–7 Letter Template 71 The Team + The Goal 4–5 The Glass House 14–17 CONT ENTS J Designed by Hannah H Designed by Camille H What Should I Make? Quiz 58–59 J Reuse, Buy Nothing 48–49 J Paint! 42–43 J Fabcycle 18 J J How to Make a Mask 60–63 J The Rogerie 52–55 J Textile Workshop 44–47 J Free Fabric 19 J J Featured Artists 22–41 (Nicole, Jamie, Tom) H What You Need to Know About the Pipeline Conflict 64–70 J East Van Free Stuff 56–57 Recycled Rug 50–51 H J J J
4. TRASH MAGAZINE TEAM Managing Editor Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Editorial Director Hannah Franes Production Manager Hannah Franes Director of Operations Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Creative Director Hannah Franes Design Director Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Style Editor Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Digital Image Specialist Hannah Franes Head of Design Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Senior Communication Designer Hannah Franes Typographer Hannah Franes Visual Editor Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Research Directors Hannah Franes, Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Copy Chief Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Senior Copy Editor Hannah Franes Group Finance Director Hannah Franes Events and Media Camille Verreault-Beauchesne Production Traffic Supervisor Hannah Franes Food and Beverage Director Camille Verreault-Beauchesne thanks to: The Buy Nothing Project Camille’s Mom Chantelle Bellrichard – CBC News Chavie Lieber – Vox.com End of The Roll Fabcycle Hannah’s Dad Jamie Dawes Jiffy Lube Jorge Barrera – CBC News Julia Franes Keep it Green Material Reuse Miriam Halpenny – Castanet News Nanay Express – YouTube Nicole McLaughlin Regional Recycling Vancouver The Rogerie Shelley Klassen Speedy Glass Tom Robinson The Workshop Attendees Yintahaccess.com 05
6. WHY FASHION BRANDS DESTROY BILLIONS WORTH OF THEIR OWN MERCHANDISE EVERY YEAR An expert explains why Burberry, H&M, Nike, and Urban Outfitters destroy unsold merch — and what it says about consumer culture. Chavie Lieber - Vox.com The British luxury brand Burberry brought in $3.6 billion in revenue last year — and destroyed $36.8 million worth of its own merchandise. In July 2018, the brand admitted in its annual report that demolishing goods was just part of its strategy to preserve its reputation of exclusivity. Shoppers did not react well to this news. People vowed to boycott Burberry over its wastefulness, while members of Parliament de- manded the British government crack down on the prac- tice. The outrage worked: Burb- erry announced two weeks ago it would no longer destroy its excess product, effective immediately. Yet Burberry is hardly the only company to use this practice; it runs high to low, from Louis Vuitton to Nike. Brands destroy product as a way to maintain exclusivity through scarcity, but the precise details of who is do- ing it and why are not commonly publicized. Every now and then, though, bits of information will trickle out. Last year, for example, a Danish TV station re- vealed that the fast-fashion retailer H&M had burned 60 tons of new and unsold clothes since 2013. In The British luxury brand Burberry brought in $3.6 billion in revenue last year — and destroyed $36.8 million worth of its own merchandise. May 2018, Richemont, the owner of the jewelry and watch brands Cartier, Piaget, and Baume & Mercier, admitted that in an effort to keep it’s products out of the hands of unauthorized sellers, it had destroyed about $563 million worth of watches over the past two years. Whistleblowing sales associates and eagle-eyed shoppers have pointed out how this practice happens at Urban Outfitters, Walmart, Eddie Bauer, Michael Kors, Victoria’s Se- cret, and J.C. Penny. The fashion indus- try is often cited as one of the world’s worst polluters — but destroying perfectly usable merchandise in an effort to maintain prestige is perhaps the dirtiest secret of them all. To find out why this practice is so widespread and what con- servation-mind- ed shoppers can do to fight back, I spoke with Timo Rissanen, an associate dean at Parsons School of Design and a pro- fessor of fashion design and sustainability at the school’s Tishman Environment and Design Center. Our conversation has been edited for length and clarity. Contined on page 13 >> 09
8. Chavie Lieber Why do brands destroy perfectly good merchandise? Timo Rissanen The simplest answer across the board is that today, quantitatively, there’s more stuff than there ever has been before. Fashion cycles have also gotten shorter because of the internet and fast fashion, so there’s a push to constantly put new merchandise out on the market. So when you combine these two, we are now literally at a place where we no longer have anywhere for this stuff to go other than up a chimney. Chavie Lieber Is it just clothing that gets destroyed? Timo Rissanen No, this is not limited to apparel. I saw a few months ago that Amazon was being called out in Germany for destroying tons of returned items, like mattresses, washing machines, dishwashers, and cellphones. Chavie Lieber Where does the actual destroying happen? Timo Rissanen A lot of it is done in India. There’s one town in India, Panipat, that specializes in shredding, and there’s a horrendous short film that documents women shredding clothes that are brand new. The film shows the women speculating that water in the West must be so expen- sive, and that people can’t afford to do their laundry, and so that’s why it’s cheaper for them to throw stuff out. Hearing that is really uncomfortable. Incineration happens everywhere, from America to Sweden. Chavie Lieber What are some of the environmental impacts of destroying excess inventory? Timo Rissanen The most obvious one is the carbon emission from burn- ing. We should be moving away from all forms of burn- ing. Polyester now accounts for about 60 percent of the total fiber market, and it comes from oil. So you could make the case that when we burn polyester, we are burning oil. There is a contribution to CO2 that is hap- pening there, and there’s also a ton of chemicals and finishings embedded in clothing and textiles through the dyeing. When this stuff is burned, it filters into the air But really, where it gets insane is thinking about clothes that were never worn in the first place. The fabric was made, the garments were made, the labor was put in, and then the stuff gets burned. It represents all kinds of different waste across the system. Chavie Lieber Why can’t excess inventory be recycled or reused? Timo Rissanen Some of it can be. Different kinds of garments are easier than others. One way to recycle clothing is to shred it and to turn it into insulation, and there are fabrics that are quite good at being turning into new fiber, spun into yarn, and then woven into clothes. But the minute you start mixing fibers, like polyester with cotton, the options for recycling become more limited. Then there’s the obstacles of buttons and zippers. Before a garment can be put through a shredder, all the buttons and zippers must be removed, and that takes manual labor. With any kind of waste management like this, there’s a cost attached to it, and it’s often cheaper just to destroy it. Chavie Lieber Why can’t the clothing be donated? Timo Rissanen Historically, a lot of the donations have gone to Africa, Latin America, South America, and to some countries in Asia. But in the last couple of years, a number of Af- rican countries, like Kenya and Uganda, have actually banned the importation of secondhand clothing from the West. It suppresses their own textile and apparel industry, since they can’t compete with the volume and the very low price of the secondhand goods. Chavie Lieber What is the theory for luxury brands destroying their extra merch? Timo Rissanen They see discounts and donating as a way to deval- ue their brand. They want to control how and where and at what price their goods are sold. You can go to a place like Century 21 in New York and you’ll find certain brands have their stock there that’s two or three seasons old and heavily discounted. Some brands are clearly fine with that, and others are not. Chavie Lieber Wouldn’t they rather earn a profit than nothing at all? Wouldn’t Chanel prefer to mark down its $3,500 bag by $300 and still make $3,000? Timo Rissanen This is where we get to the thing that nobody wants to talk about: The retail price of a luxury product has nothing to do with its actual value. When you buy something from Chanel or Gucci and you pay full retail, that money is actually paying for the massive advertising campaigns. If Chanel destroys a dress it IN CONVERSA TION tried to sell for $1,200, it hasn’t really lost $1,200. I don’t think Chanel even paid $100 [to make] that dress. And the money they’d lose would probably just be recouped through fragrances. Chavie Lieber As someone who is a part of the fashion world, can you understand the argument for destroying things in order to save a company’s prestige factor? Timo Rissanen No. I cannot. We have arrived at a point where I think we need to have some very honest conversations about what type of values this industry has. Chavie Lieber Do you think companies will follow in Burberry’s foot- steps and stop destroying their merch? Timo Rissanen I think so. I do think it will take some time because we are talking about a whole system, and it will not come to a halt because of a little bit of bad publicity. But I do think that being called out forces brands to take a look at what’s happening and start to have conversations about what they can do about it. Chavie Lieber What can shoppers do? Timo Rissanen On a very simple level, figure out which things bring you the most satisfaction and then buy those things. We are all prone to impulse-buying, which is what I’d encourage to limit. I also recommend buying second- hand if you are interested in environmental impact. With Chaive Lieber and Timo Rissanen 13
9. FREE WINDOWS My Dad owns a glass shop in the small town where I’m from. They replace hunderds of windows per year, and most of the old windows, which are often still intact and functional, are dumped in the landfill. I thought it would be cool to build a little glass cabin out of these old windows, so with the help of my Dad and my partner, we did! When prompted by a university course to dive into systems that related to climate change, I decide to investigate further into the lifecycle of windows. It turns out that pretty much every glass shop in the provience does not recycle their windows as there is a complete lack of infra- structure (and incentive) to do so. This is where the inital idea for this magazine came from! The Glass House is a work in progress. It exists in the forest by Canim Lake, BC, waiting for the day we will continue working on it... Hannah Franes – Trash Magazine 15
10. YOU COULD DO IT TOO At the start of this project, my I had zero knowledge of how to build a structure, my partner had some, and my Dad was super experienced. After absorb- ing a wealth of knowledge from many YouTube videos, then running every idea and plan I had past my Dad, I felt decently prepared to build this cabin. YouTube also provided a lot of confidence–There’s plenty of people with absolutely NO knowledge or experience who find a way to build all kinds of cool stuff. And if they could do it, I was pretty sure I could do it too. The windows were completely free, and being in a small town means we were able to gather some other free things as well, like bricks for the founda- tion. I spent money on some of the lumber, plywood and some specific items like brackets that held the foundation beams. Looking back, I’m fairly sure that I could have sourced more of these supplies “second hand”. I’ve learned that one of the best ways to source materials is to show up to the place that has what you’re looking for, and ask. The intention for this little cabin is to be a cute summer camping spot, where one can sleep in the forest and be relatively protected from mosquitoes and the occasional bear. 17
11. Meet Irina, the Creator of Fabcycle Irina is a social entrepreneur and an avid advocate of the Circular Econ- omy, and Sustainability in the Fashion Industry. Taking special interest in Textile Waste, Irina founded FABCYCLE in Vancouver in 2017, a B2B collection service of textile waste to enable designers to disrupt the cycle of garment production, and transform waste into resources by finding innovative outlets to Reuse, Recycle and Recover Fabric Waste. Irina is also the founder of Frameworq Education Society, a non-profit organi- zation with the mission to overthrow a throwaway culture, bring back repair skills, build resilient communities, and divert textile waste from the landfill. Her passion for sustainability, ensuring that no usable fabric goes to waste, and connecting textile makers with affordable and accessible materials is the driving creative force of FABCYCLE. Fabric is not waste! Text from Fabcycle.shop Fabcycle Fabric When fashion designers, brands or apparel manufacturers cannot sell or use the fabric rolls that they have, the fabric is considered to be Textile Waste. Fabcycle takes this “waste” and catego- rizes, labels, and photographs it so it can be sold in both their physical store and online. “Fabric is not waste!” AN ADVO CATE OF THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY AN ADVO CATE OF THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY AN ADVO CATE OF THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY AN ADVO CATE OF THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY AN ADVO CA THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY Fabcycle AN ADVO CATE OF THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY small business highlight: FREE FABRIC PLACES YOU MAY BE ABLE TO GET SOME FREE, OTHERWISE-WOULD-BE-TRASH FABRIC IN VANCOUVER: Shelley Klassen CONTACT: 604.709.3485 PIECE SIZE: Scraps - 2’x2’ and under OTHER INSTRUCTIONS: Call ahead as it will take a few days to collect a bag of scraps. Fabcycle CONTACT: Contact form on their website PIECE SIZE: Scraps - 2’x2’ and under OTHER INSTRUCTIONS: You can order on their website too! LEARN HOW TO MAKE A MASK WITH RECYCLED FABRIC ON PAGE 60 THE FABCYCLE WEBSITE 19
13. FEAT URED ART ISTS 23
15. A New York-based designer. In 2018, a hobby evolved into a career, one that focuses on the ever-evolving exploration around upcycling and sustainable fashion. Taking a tongue-in-cheek approach to her creative process, Nicole has transformed old volleyballs into slippers, camera bags into bralettes, and crafted board shorts from packets of Haribo gummies. This unexpected translation of materials allows her to uniquely highlight the message of sustainability—a key element to her success in changing the perception around waste and sustainable design. Workshops are also a significant focus of her work. These globally held exercises help people realize the possibilities of pre-existing items and allow her to connect with people and support her community. Nicole is currently developing a non-profit organization that helps provide much-needed design resources to young people, connecting large companies – especially those with deadstock and overstock materials – to school and universities in need. She is working towards leading a regular series of workshops with a continued focus on sustainability, and eventually, a summer program concentrating on education and skill-based growth. The curriculum will teach you that design is more than just drawing and making, but an understanding of 'how' and 'why' and what we can do to change the future. Words from Nicole McLaughlin’s website: nicolemclaughlin.com a key element to her success in changing the perception around waste and sustainable design 27
16. Fyoocher is more than an apparel company. It's a movement, a positive shift, and a community. Our goal is to redefine who fashion is for, how we consume it, and the way we see ourselves. With a full size range from 24 to 42, our clothes are made for everybody and every BODY. We are speaking to a generation that cares deeply about where their clothes come from. Everything is locally made in Vancouver, BC. Our garments are made from upcycled or deadstock materials. Our fabrics come from either thrift stores, overproduced fabrics or scraps from local manufac- turers, or local businesses that have donated uncon- ventional material otherwise destined for the landfill. Our goal is to reduce textile waste at a regional level, and then global. We all have an important role in this. Today is the day. Tomorrow is too late. We have to make better choices about what we put on our bodies, so let’s work together to use the materials that already exist. Each garment is individually designed based on the materials at hand leaving each piece almost “one of a kind”. Oftentimes there will only be enough for quantities of 2 or 3, which leaves each customer feeling unique. We give you the opportunity to have your clothes tell an important message. They are silent activists projecting your true values. So, let's join together to change the Fyoocher of fashion, create an inclusive community, and raise awareness among all of us consumers Text from Fyoocher.ca JAMIE DAWSE, CREATOR OF 29
17. Mainly, everyone was taking a step back and really thinking about the world as a whole and what we actually need to be doing, and everyone was at home and online and wanting to support local, and everyone was being extremely sup- portive of what small designers in Vancouver were doing, and I don’t think that would have happened if everything didn’t just take a stop and everyone at a standstill. So I think it’s been really really cool. I don’t think I would be where I am today without all these different circumstances. Where are your main markets? Are your customers mostly from Vancouver? I know Ella Emhoff has worn your stuff, you were on MALL NYC and you’ve really been blowing up on Instagram. Canada has been super supportive. I think I do at least 60% of my sales in Canada, which is really cool. Because I don’t really buy a lot of brands in Canada, at least before, I’ve really started recognizing certain brands that I love and then proba- bly the other portions are the States and Europe, so far, have been my markets. Just work- ing with influencers and people in other countries gives me an opportunity to reach people that I usually wouldn’t. That’s really cool! It’s a cool community and I always put on my [Insta- gram] story, “If you ever seen any fabrics like this, just DM me,” and I’ve been getting so many responses. I’ve had girls come drop off fabric IN CONVERSATION Last April, a month into the global lockdown, many predicted that the pandemic would be the death knell for independent fashion brands. It’s also when Jamie Dawes quietly launched Fyoocher, a sustainable line of upcycled clothing made from deadstock fabrics in wild patterns. To her surprise, the brand took off quickly: by September of 2020 she was selling about 20 pairs of pants through her website. In February, Ella Emhoff modeled her black and white version of the Wave Pant for indie e-tailer MALL NYC. (The style is currently sold out on Fyoocher’s website). Ironically, Jamie couldn’t have launched her at a better time. What’s the story behind Fyoocher? It’s a story that keeps changing for me, which is so funny. The real reason why I started this is because of the lack of jobs in Vancouver. There are proba- bly three or four companies that employ everyone, all graduates out of school, and none of them are sustainable, and it’s [all] huge corporate businesses that I was hesitant to be a part of. There was just a serious lack of jobs, especially creative jobs here. I was thinking about moving cities and trying to find something else and I kind of just decided to give it a go and try my own thing; I kind of gained the confidence in really seeing how everything was run and I was like, I can do this. That was a really cool feeling. I quit my job in January [of 2020] and then by April I had come out with five pant styles and done my first photoshoot and then it was just off to the races from there. Obviously that’s exactly when COVID hit. Everyone talks about the negative sides of it, but as far as helping small businesses go, it’s been really great. “I quit my job in January [of 2020] and then by April I had come out with five pant styles and done my first photoshoot and then it was just off to the races from there.” How so? How did it help focus attention on your business? With Josh Greenblatt and Jamie Dawse, creator of Fyoocher 31
18. Mainly, everyone was taking a step back and really thinking about the world as a whole and what we actually need to be doing, and everyone was at home and online and wanting to support local, and everyone was being extremely sup- portive of what small designers in Vancouver were doing, and I don’t think that would have happened if everything didn’t just take a stop and everyone at a standstill. So I think it’s been really really cool. I don’t think I would be where I am today without all these different circumstances. Where are your main markets? Are your customers mostly from Vancouver? I know Ella Emhoff has worn your stuff, you were on MALL NYC and you’ve really been blowing up on Instagram. Canada has been super supportive. I think I do at least 60% of my sales in Canada, which is really cool. Because I don’t really buy a lot of brands in Canada, at least before, I’ve really started recognizing certain brands that I love and then proba- bly the other portions are the States and Europe, so far, have been my markets. Just work- ing with influencers and people in other countries gives me an opportunity to reach people that I usually wouldn’t. That’s really cool! It’s a cool community and I always put on my [Insta- gram] story, “If you ever seen any fabrics like this, just DM me,” and I’ve been getting so many responses. I’ve had girls come drop off fabric IN CONVERSATION Last April, a month into the global lockdown, many predicted that the pandemic would be the death knell for independent fashion brands. It’s also when Jamie Dawes quietly launched Fyoocher, a sustainable line of upcycled clothing made from deadstock fabrics in wild patterns. To her surprise, the brand took off quickly: by September of 2020 she was selling about 20 pairs of pants through her website. In February, Ella Emhoff modeled her black and white version of the Wave Pant for indie e-tailer MALL NYC. (The style is currently sold out on Fyoocher’s website). Ironically, Jamie couldn’t have launched her at a better time. What’s the story behind Fyoocher? It’s a story that keeps changing for me, which is so funny. The real reason why I started this is because of the lack of jobs in Vancouver. There are proba- bly three or four companies that employ everyone, all graduates out of school, and none of them are sustainable, and it’s [all] huge corporate businesses that I was hesitant to be a part of. There was just a serious lack of jobs, especially creative jobs here. I was thinking about moving cities and trying to find something else and I kind of just decided to give it a go and try my own thing; I kind of gained the confidence in really seeing how everything was run and I was like, I can do this. That was a really cool feeling. I quit my job in January [of 2020] and then by April I had come out with five pant styles and done my first photoshoot and then it was just off to the races from there. Obviously that’s exactly when COVID hit. Everyone talks about the negative sides of it, but as far as helping small businesses go, it’s been really great. “I quit my job in January [of 2020] and then by April I had come out with five pant styles and done my first photoshoot and then it was just off to the races from there.” How so? How did it help focus attention on your business? With Josh Greenblatt and Jamie Dawse, creator of Fyoocher 31
19. at my studio that have been left over sewing projects they don’t want anymore. It’s really cool. “Mainly, everyone was taking a step back and really thinking about the world as a whole and what we actually need to be doing, and everyone was at home and online and wanting to support local.’” What’s behind the name Fyoocher? That is a good question! I actually had a name that I used years and years ago that I’ve always loved and was set on using that one and then five years later I go to register it and there’s already like 20 compa- nies with that name. I was just kind of brainstorming, I wanted to do something that had a play on sustain- ability and it’s actually just the pronunciation of the word “future.” If you google the “future” definition it’s just how you pronounce it. And I thought it look really cool, I loved the double o, you see something and you’re like, yeah, that’s it. Clearly it’s resonating. So are you mainly speaking to people through Instagram and social media? Definitely emailing as well. I get lots of emails from stylists and cool opportunities, but I love just the casualness of DMs. As you grow, how are you able to keep sustainability at the core of your business? That’s super important to me and that’s why I started Fyoocher, and a main reason why I left the company I worked for before. As you do grow, it becomes harder and harder and lots of these companies start to cut corners to make a buck and now they have a ton of employees they need to provide for, so [for me] it’s definitely wanting to take things slow, not rush anything and kind of keep my [sustainability] practices at the forefront. My goal is just to have a bunch of home sewers I can have as contract work- ers and I can just be fabric sourcing and designing. And I think that is a sustainable means to do it. I think I could keep all of my practices the same as I grow “as long sustainability is at the forefront and I’m producing products I love, I’m happy.” -Jamie 33
20. slow, not rush anything and kind of keep my [sustain- ability] practices at the forefront. My goal is just to have a bunch of home sewers I can have as contract workers and I can just be fabric sourcing and design- ing. And I think that is a sustainable means to do it. I think I could keep all of my practices the same as I grow and obviously if I hit a roadblock I’m gonna just take a step back and not compromise anything. It’s a tough thing, a lot of CEOs get a little money hungry when they see it coming in but that’s not the reason I started this. What would you say is your brand’s ethos? I am honestly trying to figure everything out as I go. I was not organized. I had dreamed about this but I am learning so much and everything is changing on the daily. So as long sustainability is at the forefront and I’m producing products I love, I’m happy. People don’t usually think of Vancouver as a fashion capital but it seems like there’s a huge opportunity for young designers there. What have you learned in the past year, and what kinds of insights or advice do you have for emerging designers? Oh my gosh, I’ve learned so much! Just how long everything actually takes is a huge one. The real cost of photoshoots and models and everything that goes into that whole side of things, to even market your brand, has just been, you know, it’s expensive but it’s incredibly worth it. I would just say if you’re a new designer going into this, definitely don’t go into this thinking you’re going to make a lot of money, and don’t go into it looking for validation or fame, I think if you have something cool to offer the market that isn’t already out there then absolutely go for it, but at the end of the day there are so many products out there so if you have something that’s really worth- while, then go for it. “f you’re a new designer going into this, definitely don’t go into this thinking you’re going to make a lot of money, and don’t go into it looking for validation or fame.‘” What does the future look like for you? Do you want to expand into other categories? Yes, my goal is to have patterns for every fabric type I find. I want to have a knit, I want to have non- stretch, I want to have sheer, and all of that requires different machinery which I don’t have yet. So obvi- ously my goal is to be able to take all of the fabrics that I find, not have to let anything pass because I’m not capable of sewing it, so I’m looking to expand into more stretch knit so I can fit more body types and just kind of expand obviously the product line based on what I can find. And Vancouver is obvi- ously such a hub for sportswear, like Lululemon and all of that, so spandex is so readily available but I can’t use it as of yet so just trying to expand that way into, so I can actually save every material that I find. That’s the short term goal. And a long term goal? Obviously my goal is to get into some stores. A dream would be to sell on SSENSE, that type of thing. [That’s] where I’m hopefully heading. All images courtesy of Fyoocher 35
21. THEME TOM ROBINSON, CREATOR OF 37
24. How it works: Anyone can drop off their old house paint, primer, or wood stain at participating Paintshare locations. Anyone can also go to any of these locations and pick up free paint! A True Story: I (Hannah) went to Regional Recycling in Vancouver to check out the free paint. In this scenario, calling ahead to the recycling depot was not useful, and it was best to just show up! The paint is kept near the electronics recycling, and it’s best to ask the people working over there about get- ting some paint. It seemed like people don’t pick up paint too often, so understandably, the staff working in the opposite end of the building seemed a bit confused. You need to sign a short waiver form, and then you can to take whatever paint you can find in the bin! I scored half a can of purple paint, which was used to make this page! Instructions: You can look up their website with all Paintshare locations by search- ing “Paintshare locations” or by entering the link below. Next, search your location and under “What are you looking to recycle” select Paintshare. Call the location ahead or show up during their business hours! Instructions: You can look up their website with all Paintshare locations by search- ing “Paintshare locations” or by entering the link below. Next, search your location and under “What are you looking to recycle” select Paintshare. Call the location ahead or show up during their business hours! PAINT- SHARE A True Story: I (Hannah) went to Regional Recycling in Vancouver to check out the free paint. In this scenario, calling ahead to the recycling depot was not useful, and it was best to just show up! The paint is kept near the electronics recycling, and it’s best to ask the people working over there about get- ting some paint. It seemed like people don’t pick up paint too often, so understandably, the staff working in the opposite end of the building seemed a bit confused. You need to sign a short waiver form, and then you can to take whatever paint you can find in the bin! I scored half a can of purple paint, which was used to make this page! 43
25. WORKSHOP WORKSHOP MAKING THINGS OUT OF TRASH TO HIGHLIGHT OUR NEED TO CONSUME LESS AND REUSE MORE Hannah Franes – Trash Magazine The Workshop This workshop was an opportunity for people to try making things out of trash. We centred this workshop around textiles, with a variety of fabrics collected from local Vancouver companies and designers. We also provided frames for weaving, wooden canvases for textile col- laging, sewing supplies, metal car parts, paint, and glue for participants to experiment with. All the materials for this workshop (other than a few needles, thread, and glue) were things that would have otherwise ended up in a landfill. Here in BC, we are some of the largest generators of waste in the world, and our businesses consistently throw out perfectly useable materials. When we utilize trash instead of buying new, we are not only diverting waste from the landfill, but also helping to prevent new materials from being produced in the first place. The goal of this workshop was not just to divert a few bags of garbage, but to hold a creative workshop for free, with little to no environmental impact, and to prompt people to start thinking about how we can utilize waste at every level to reduce our environmental impact. 45
27. re - use re - use re - use re - use nothing nothing nothing nothing buy buy buy buy KEEP IT GREEN MATERIAL REUSE What they offer: ALL KINDS OF FREE STUFF Location: 1772 Broadway St Unit 110, Port Coquitlam, BC Contact: 604.341.6495 The motion picture industry processes an incredible amount of materi- al while developing film and TV. Think costumes, set materials, props, equipment, and everything and anything you see on film. Some of these materials are rented and reused within the industry, but many end up in the landfill. That’s where Keep It Green comes in! Keep It Green accepts these materials, and they are made available to the film industry, film schools, community theatre groups, artists, and charities - for free! This ultimately saves filmmakers and artists money on both ends of the production by not having to purchase some of their necessary materials and by reducing their waste disposal fees. Feel free to show up at their Port Coquitlam location and browse for free stuff! THE BUY NOTHING PROJECT What they offer: ALL KINDS OF FREE STUFF Location: All over Canada + 30 more countries Join a Group: Visit buynothingproject.org or search “Buy Nothing _Your Town Here_” on Facebook The Buy Nothing Project was founded in 2013 with the mission to build community by connecting people through hyperlocal gifting, and reducing our impact on the environment. The Buy Nothing Project is the world’s biggest gift economy, being used in communities around the world, allowing neighbors to share freely with one another. What is a gift economy? It means everything shared on Buy Nothing is given freely, no money, no barter, no strings. Free. On Buy Nothing, you can post three things: GIFTS of items or services that others can use, ASKS for things you could use, and GRATITUDES to show appreciation and thanks! Find your local Buy Nothing group on Facebook or on their new app to start gifting and reciving free stuff! 49
28. Rug made from 100% recycled fashion industry scraps. Hand woven by Camille Verreault-Beauchesne. 51
29. A New Store A new store like no other has opened in Kelowna’s Orchard Park Shopping Centre. The Rogerie sells plastic products made from 100% recycled materials using 3D printers. “It’s our first retail location. We’ve been online for about a year and a half. So what we do is basically make everyday products from recycled plastic,” says co-founder Brady Rogers. “We get a lot of it from partner companies around Canada but some of it we’ve actually started getting from the Kelowna landfill as well.” To make the products, the materials are washed and ground into pellets. Then, they are tinted using concentrated non-toxic colourants. The pellet mixture is put through a machine which melts and cools it before it’s chopped back into pellets. The pellets run through a machine that melts them a second time and spools it into rolls. The finished spools of filament are then ready to be used in the 3D printers. The Rogerie sells products such as self-watering planters, wine glasses, soap dishes, bathrooms sets, drink coasters, salt and pepper shakers, reusable cutlery sets, jewelry, ornaments and more. “Our snowflake ornaments are our first product that we’ve made from fridges from the local landfill here,” explains Rogers. “We got special permission to go to the landfill after hours and take apart a bunch of fridges and pull out all the plastic drawers and shelves. We cut those up ourselves, washed them, ground them and turned them into the products.” The Rogerie facility uses only renewable energy sources as well as minimal ground shipping and no overseas shipping for the products. They also use waste-free manufacturing technology and offer recycling services for their products. this is what this is what they make > they make > small business highlight small business highlight THE ROGERIE THE ROGERIE Miriam Halpenny – Castanet News 53
30. “Great design - sustainable design - “Great design - sustainable design - means taking responsibility for what means taking responsibility for what we produce, from the time raw mate- we produce, from the time raw mate- rials are taken from the earth to the rials are taken from the earth to the time they return to it. We have to time they return to it. We have to account for where our plastic waste account for where our plastic waste comes from, how it’s transported, how comes from, how it’s transported, how it’s processed, where it’s going, and it’s processed, where it’s going, and how we’re going to manage it for the how we’re going to manage it for the next 400 years. next 400 years. Anything less than Anything less than that isn’t going to fix the problem.” that isn’t going to fix the problem.” - Brady (Co-founder of the Rog - Brady (Co-founder of the Rogerie) erie) 55
31. FREE TRASH YOU COULD MAKE THINGS OUT OF IN EAST VANCOUVER CARPETING End of the Roll 255 Terminal Ave, Vancouver, BC SIZE: Varied sizes. Small rolls 2-3’ wide by 10’+ long. POSSIBLE USES: Dollhouse carpeting/Add texture to a sculpture METAL VALVE STEM CORES (See left) Mr. Lube 1790 Main St, Vancouver, BC Jiffy Lube 394 Kingsway, Vancouver, BC SIZE: Under 1” x 1” POSSIBLE USES: Jewelry/ fill a maraca CRACKED WINDSHIELDS (Car windows) Speedy Glass 392 Kingsway, Vancouver, BC SIZE: Approx 4’ x 2.5’ POSSIBLE USES: Art installation/??? POTENTIALLY ANYTHING Just Ask! Give an easily understandable, comfy reason E.G: “I’m an artist /art student” or “I’m making X thing” NOT a complicated explaination of the entire project I LEARNED THAT: The hard way 57
32. >> START HERE >> Are you able to / do you want to transport materials OVER 15LBs? How much time do you have to work on this project? How much time do you have to work on this project? How much time do you have to work on this project? How much time do you have to work on this project? How much space do you have to work on this project? How much space do you have to work on this project? How much space do you have to work on this project? How much space do you have to work on this project? YES NO 40+ hours 40+ hours 40+ hours 40+ hours 10 - 20 hours 10 - 20 hours 10 - 20 hours 10 - 20 hours PICK ONE: Cuddles or Kids Can you keep a plant alive? PICK ONE: Friends or Fire PICK ONE: Cute or Fun CUTE YES YES FRIENDS FIRE CUDDLES CARDBOARD OBSTACLE COURSE BODY PILLOW PLANT POT PAINT ON GLASS WOOD BURNING ART FRIENDSHIP QUILT UPCYCLE/RENO A STOOL DOGHOUSE WOODBLOCK PRINTS CLOTHES OR QUILTS MOBILE SCULPTURE SWINGING BUCKET PAINTING BROKEN GLASS PHOTOSHOOT HOLIDAY ORNAMENTS UPCYCLE CLOTHES COMFY PILLOW STICKERS OR ORIGAMI PAPER BEADS SCRUNCHIES OR MASKS TEXTILE COLLAGE A BIG, EXPRESSIVE SPLATTER PAINTING FUN NO NO KIDS Do you have a dog? A few hours, tops A few hours, tops A few hours, tops A few hours, tops Minimal (Small apt/suite) Minimal (Small apt/suite) Minimal (Small apt/suite) Minimal (Small apt/suite) Medium (You have a living room) Medium (You have a living room) Medium (You have a living room) Medium (You have a living room) Lots of space (Large studio or yard) Lots of space (Large studio or yard) Lots of space (Large studio or yard) Lots of space (Large studio or yard) PICK ONE: Holidays or Everyday PICK ONE: 2D or 3D Do you feel like: Fashion or Passin’ Out HOLIDAYS FASHION 2D 3D EVERYDAY PASSIN’ OUT SMALL GLASS MOSAIC COLLAGES WHAT SHOULD I MAKE? QUIZ Find out what you should make based on your time, space, ability and more! Every project at the end of this quiz could be made with primarily free trash (reclaimed materials)! 59
33. 4. Your line should end up looking like this! ^^^ Cut along the lines. . 5. Unfold and seperate one of the cotton layers. Keep the non-woven fabric and other cotton piece together, with the cotton piece on the inside. Sew along the lines shown above. . 6. Re-stack the two sewn pieces with seams facing out. Sew along the lines as shown above. 1. Start with 3 pieces of fabric that are 28 x 17cm. Ideally, you want two pieces of cotton fabric and one piece of non-woven fabric. 2. Stack the fabric pieces and fold in half twice. Mark the pink lines according to the digram above. 3. Line up the side of a plate with the top and left mark, then top and right mark, to mark the curves. HOW TO MAKE A MASK You will need: • Fabric • Needle + thread OR sewing machine • Elastics Tutorial by Nanay Express Tested and modelled by Julia Franes >>> - 3cm - (Diagram is not to scale!!) - 4cm - - 3.5cm - - 3.5cm - 7. Make tiny cuts along the edge. 61
34. 8. Turn the whole thing inside out. 9. Turn the ends in–like you’re rolling up a pant leg, but backwards. (The cut ends will end up inside.) 10. Put some elastics in there, and sew along the lines as shown above. Elastics saved from old disposable masks are best! End. You did it! 63
36. The conflict over a natural gas pipeline in northwest- ern British Columbia is the latest flashpoint between resource development and Indigenous rights and title in a province where large swaths of territory are not covered by any treaty. At the centre of the conflict is a multi-billion dollar natural gas project — touted as the largest private sector investment in Canadian history — and an assertion by Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs that no pipelines can be built through their traditional terri- tory without their consent. The $6-billion, 670-kilometre Coastal GasLink pipe- line has received approval from the province, and 20 First Nations band councils have signed agree- ments in support of the project, including five of the six band councils in the Wet’suwet’en nation. However, the Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs say those band councils are only responsible for the territory within their individual reserves because their authority comes only from the Indian Act. The heredi- tary chiefs — who are the leaders of the nation’s gov- ernance system in place before the imposition of the Indian Act — assert authority over 22,000 square kilometres of the nation’s traditional territory, an area recognized as unceded by the Supreme Court of Canada in a 1997 decision. In British Columbia most of the land has never been ceded or surrendered and Supreme Court decisions have grappled with the uncertainty left in that wake. B.C. was also the first jurisdiction in Canada to pass legislation to implement the UN Declaration on the WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THE COASTAL GASLINK PIPELINE CONFLICT Chantelle Bellrichard, Jorge Barrera – CBC News Rights of Indigenous Peoples — an international document that sets minimum standards on how countries deal with Indigenous peoples. What happened a year ago The conflict is centred on a forest service road that leads into the heart of Wet’suwet’en territory, about 300 kilometres west of Prince George, B.C. The road is the only access point for workers to build the Coastal GasLink pipeline through that area. The Wet’suwet’en have established at least three camps along the road, including the Unist’ot’en heal- ing village that began as a Wet’suwet’en-operated checkpoint on the road in 2009, preventing people working on the pipeline from accessing the territory. An interim court injunction in December 2018 ordered people to stop preventing Coastal Gas- Link from gaining access to the road and bridge. Police came to enforce the injunction at the Gidimt’en camp on Jan. 7, 2019, arresting 14 people. That led to an agreement between the nation’s hereditary chiefs and police to allow pipeline workers through Unist’ot’en for pre-construction work. What’s happened over the last few weeks Dec. 31, 2019 Justice Marguerite Church rules in favour of Coastal GasLink and orders an interloc- utory injunction. Church rules that Coastal GasLink has all the required approvals to proceed with the pipeline project. The injunction orders specific Wet’suwet’en defendants and supporters to stop preventing Coastal GasLink and contractors from accessing the Morice West Forest Service Road. Jan. 5, 2020 Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs issue an eviction notice to Coastal GasLink, citing Wet’su- wet’en trespass laws. Jan. 6 RCMP report finding fallen trees on the Morice West Forest Service Road along with notched trees and other materials they characterize as “traps likely to cause bodily harm,” including stacks of tires, kindling and jugs of oil and gas products. The road is now impassable. Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs say the trees were felled by people on the territory out of fear for their safety. Coastal GasLink posted aerial photos from Jan. 7 that appear to show a large cluster of more than 100 trees strewn across the Morice River Forest Service Road. Jan. 7 Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs hold a news conference marking the one-year anniversary of the RCMP enforcement of the previous, interim injunction against them. The chiefs publish a list of demands including calls for the province to cancel all the permits for the project and for the RCMP leave the territory. “We are the title holders, and the province must address the issue of our title if they want to gain access to our lands,” says hereditary Chief Na’moks, who is also known as John Ridsdale. The chiefs cite a report from the UN committee on the elimina- tion of racial discrimination urging Canada to halt the construction of the Site C dam, Trans Moun- tain pipeline expansion and the Coastal GasLink pipeline. The committee says these projects do not have the free, prior and informed consent of Indigenous Peoples. The UN letter draws criticism from groups includ- ing the First Nations LNG Alliance who say Indig- enous groups who support the project were not consulted before the committee took a position on the project. Coastal GasLink says in a news release that it will “delay re-mobilization” at the site under dispute “while engagement and a negotiated resolu- tion remain possible.” The company says it requested a meeting with Wet’suwet’en hereditary leadership. This request is repeated in the days and weeks after Jan. 7 and the chiefs maintain they’re not interested in meeting with the company and only want to have government-to-government conversations with the provincial and federal governments. Also on Jan. 7, Coastal GasLink posts the injunction order. Under the terms of the court order this triggers a 72-hour window of time for the road to be cleared of debris and made passable for the company and its contractors. Jan. 10 Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs send a letter to B.C. Premier John Horgan and Prime Minister Justin Trudeau requesting a meeting. 67
37. Jan. 13 RCMP set up a checkpoint restricting access on the Morice West Forest Service Road, citing safety concerns. In particular, they note concern for fallen trees and notched trees along the road. The RCMP has had a temporary detachment, dubbed a Community-Industry Safety Office, on the road since January 2019. Also on Jan. 13, Horgan says the “rule of law” needs to be respected, the pipeline will be built and Coastal GasLink has all the necessary approvals to proceed. B.C. Premier John Horgan says the province has dis- charged its responsibility with respect to the Coastal GasLink pipeline project, which is opposed by five Wet’suwet’en hereditary chiefs. (Ben Nelms/CBC) Jan. 20 Horgan sends hereditary chief Na’moks a letter offering to send B.C. Indigenous Relations Minister Scott Fraser to the Wet’suwet’en office in Smithers to meet. Jan. 22 Fraser travels to Smithers planning to meet with hereditary chiefs. The hereditary chiefs send their office staff to meet with Fraser instead. Meanwhile, the chiefs spend their day in meetings with the RCMP. Jan. 27 Horgan announces former NDP MP Nathan Cullen has been appointed as an intermediary in the dispute. He is tasked with attempting to “de-escalate” the situation. Coastal GasLink president David Pfeiffer holds a media briefing and stresses that the company would still like to meet with the Wet’suwet’en heredi- tary chiefs. They continue to refuse. Jan. 30 The RCMP announces it will stand down on enforcement of the injunction while province and hereditary chiefs engage in a seven-day discussion period. Feb. 4 The B.C. government, Wet’suwet’en hered- itary chiefs and Coast GasLink all issue statements in the late evening saying the talks have failed to find a resolution. Feb. 5 RCMP announce at a news conference they are ready to enforce the injunction order and urge pipeline opponents to leave the area or face arrest. Feb. 6 Before dawn, RCMP begin enforcing the injunction. Six people are arrested at a camp at kilometre 39. Feb. 7 RCMP dismantle the barrier at Gidimt’en checkpoint at the 44-kilometre mark of the Morice West Forest Service Road. The Mounties say support beams appeared to have been cut on the bridge, making it unsafe. Police make four more arrests. Wet’suwet’en supporters block the only road back to Houston, temporarily preventing RCMP from returning to their detachment with those who’d been arrested. Police announce the exclusion zone and checkpoint would be relocated more than 20 kilo- metres closer to Houston on the road. Feb. 8 RCMP arrest 11 people at a warming room after they refused to leave. Police say in a statement that several people had “barricaded themselves inside, some using chains in an effort to prevent their arrest.” Feb. 10 Police move into Unist’ot’en, where the Wet’suwet’en have, for more than a decade, been re-establishing a presence in what began as an effort to block proposed energy projects through the area. Among seven arrested are Karla Tait, the direc- tor of clinical programming for the Unist’ot’en Healing Centre, and Freda Huson, longtime spokes- person for Unist’ot’en and one of the named defen- dants in the injunction brought forward by Coastal GasLink. RCMP say they have concluded “major enforcement operations. 69
38. What are the stakes? The stakes, economically, politically and interna- tionally, remain high. The Coastal GasLink pipeline is a key component of a $40-billion LNG Canada export terminal at Kitimat, B.C., designed to ship nat- ural gas to international markets. It is on the territory of the Haisla Nation, which supports the project. The LNG export terminal is backed by one of the world’s largest energy companies and three state- owned firms owned by Korea, China and Malay- sia. In 2011, Shell, which owns a 40 per cent share of the project, issued a tender to build a pipeline to feed the terminal, which was won by a subsidiary of TC Energy Corp — then known as TransCanada — which created Coastal GasLink. LNG Canada’s decision to move ahead with the project was announced in Vancouver in October 2018 with Horgan and Trudeau in attendance. It came at a time when the Trudeau government was facing dark skies over the energy sector with a year left before the next federal election. The federal Lib- eral government had recently approved the Pacific NorthWest LNG project, only to see it fall apart. The Energy East pipeline project had collapsed and the Trans Mountain pipeline was tangled in the courts. Dear I wish to voice my support for the Wet’suwet’en people’s nonviolent movement opposing the develop- ment of an LNG pipeline on their land, as well as call on you to call off RCMP and ask government officials to meet with the Hereditary Chiefs. Canada and British Columbia have adopted UNDRIP into legislation and I call on you and your office to implement this immediately by respecting the Wet’suwet’en decision to oppose this project. They have never ceded their lands or given up their jurisdiction to their yintah as recognized by the 1997 Supreme Court Case Delgamuukw-Gisdaywa vs The Queen. I urge you to immediately uphold the UNDRIP call to Free, Prior and Informed Consent in Wet’suwet’en territory by their Hereditary Chiefs, the plaintiffs of this landmark decision. The Wet’suwet’en have asserted their jurisdiction and evicted Coastal GasLink as well as taken direct action on their territory. The forcible removal of them goes against the UN Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous People. The UN High Office Commissioner has written multiple letters to the state regarding their breach of the UNDRIP. Please heed their call, hear their concerns, and take decisive action against LNG development in the struggle to renew Canada’s energy sector and address the climate emergency. Future generations of Canadians will be thankful, as will your constituents. Regards, At the announcement, Trudeau said the project was the “largest private sector investment” in Canada’s history. “It shows what’s possible when you consult with Indigenous and local communities.” Now, despite calls for the prime minister’s involve- ment from hereditary chiefs, the Trudeau government has distanced itself from the ongoing conflict over the pipeline integral to the overall LNG Canada project. The Prime Minister’s Office and the office of Crown-Indigenous Relations Minister Carolyn Ben- nett referred questions to Natural Resources Minister Seamus O’Regan’s office. O’Regan’s office said in an emailed statement that the issue was up to the province to deal with. “Our government is committed to a renewed rela- tionship with Indigenous peoples based on the recognition of rights, respect, co-operation and partnership,” said the statement. “This project went through a provincial review, and remains fully under provincial jurisdiction. We encourage all the parties involved to work together towards a solution.” 71
39. Scan here to access this letter template online + find more information and resources for supporting indigenous land defenders. 73
40. IN THIS ISSUE: IN THIS ISSUE: FREE FABRIC FREE FABRIC TEXTILE PROJECTS TEXTILE PROJECTS FASHION WASTE FASHION WASTE + MUCH MORE! + MUCH MORE! 74