Upgrade to Pro — share decks privately, control downloads, hide ads and more …

Fining & Packaging

Fining & Packaging

An overview of your options for fining and packaging your beer, presented by James Wilson at our February (2024) online meeting

London Amateur Brewers

February 19, 2024

More Decks by London Amateur Brewers

Other Decks in Education


  1. • Remove haze and clarify • Shelf Stability • Accelerate

    conditioning • Reduce chances of gushing/foaming Why fine?
  2. • Protein + Polyphenols/Tannins = haze • Protein in most

    malts, Excessive in wheat/oats or adjuncts derived from them. • Polyphenols from grain husks • hop Haze – polyphenols from dry hops • Chill Haze - temperature, but can become permanent • Yeast - particularly low flocculation strains like WIT/hefeweizen, but also can include us-05/Chico Common Causes of haze
  3. Less common Hazes • Calcium deficient worts • Inadequately modified

    malt (starches) • Infection • Damaged or overstressed yeast • Lubricants, or other foreign material in the beer • Clean new (or not used for a while) Equipment before use • Excessive finings • Stick to the recommended dosage rates
  4. Fining Types • Two kinds of finings: copper/Kettle finings and

    post fermentation finings • Copper/Kettle finings generally go in the end of the boil • Removes proteins from beer that can cause beer stability issues • Post Fermentation finings are usually added before bottling, racking to cask or kegging • Accelerate conditioning • Clarify beer
  5. Copper finings • Boil 5-10 minutes: • Carageenan • Irish

    moss • Protofloc/whirfloc tablets • PVPP • Polyclar BrewBrite (Carageenan + PVPP) • BrauSol Special • End of boil or dose on way to fermenter
  6. • Isinglass • Very effective in conjunction with auxillary finings

    • Tricky to make up and does not store well once made up • Not vegan • Gelatin • Highly Effective, cheap, easy to make up • Not vegan • Enzymes • Clarity Ferm/NBS Clarity • Only works on Chill haze, not yeast • Claimed effective in gluten reduction • Brausol Special • Liquid silica • Add in-line on transfer or before filling keg/bottling bucket otherwise it doesn’t mix in • 7-9ml for 20 litres seems effective • All work best with chilling • Papain/Bentonite – for winemaking Fermenter finings
  7. A quick guide to using gelatin Any powder or leaf

    gelatin will do – not vege-gelatin 1. Chill your fermenter • as cold as you can without freezing for 24-48 hours 2. Sanitize a glass jug 3. Put 150-200ml water into the jug 4. Add a teaspoon of powdered gelatin (or a small sheet you have soaked) 5. Heat in microwave gradually to 65C giving an occasional stir • Do not exceed 70c unless you want jelly. 6. Stir into cold beer and leave for 24-48 hours.
  8. What else can you do? • Right mash ph (5.2-5.6)

    • Avoid grain in runnings • Strong and long boil • Cool quickly (?) • Lagering • Time • Cold • Filter – hard to do, messy, danger of oxygen exposure • Centrifuge – Too big/expensive for microbreweries, let alone home brewers!
  9. What can go wrong? • Pick one copper fining and

    one fermentation fining • Mixing can counteract each other • Overdosing - Too little is preferable to too much • Don’t fermentation fine too early • Yeast may need to finish up • cold crash/lager in particular • Small danger of infection
  10. I’m scared of fining because… • “Hazy beer is ok

    – it’s about taste” • We drink with our eyes – clarity can add to the appeal • “Fining reduces aroma” • It does. Only very Slightly if you try side by side in a young beer. • “There won’t be enough yeast to carbonate” • False. You can have visibly clear beer with 1 Million Cells/ml of yeast. Belgian breweries aim for around 300k cells/ml for bottle carbonation • “Brewery X doesn’t fine” • They may still filter or centrifuge. • Cask beer is usually served at 12C – too warm for chill haze
  11. Packaging Options • Bottling • Canning • Pressure Barrel •

    Mini kegs • Corny kegs • Sankey/commercial kegs
  12. Small Pack • Bottling • Cheap! • Just need a

    capper, or use swing/screw tops, and a tap/siphon • Crown caps absorb oxygen • Cleaning bottle is time consuming • Tips: • Clean bottles as you get them • Minimise headspace before capping • Bottle from the fermenter • Canning • Expensive can seamer required • Cans are use once, and take up space being stored • Cans are almost indestructible for shipping • They look cool • Big opening invites oxygen for uncarbonated beer.
  13. (Cheap) Kegs! • Pressure barrel • Great starter option •

    S30 valve allows you to inject CO2 as you go with a sodastream cylinder adapter • Change the rubber seals every couple of years (getting hard to find these) • Mini kegs • 5 litres • Gravity pour is best as the taps aren’t good • …but that means drinking 5 litres quickly • Kegland Oxebar • They all need chilling!
  14. (More expensive) Kegs! • Steel mini kegs • 5/10 litres

    • Needs tapping head • Can naturally carbonate then use tap and mini CO2 bulbs • Good as a mobile option • Cornelius type kegs • Generally 19 litres, but you can get 9/12 litres at the same cost • Occasionally found cheap • Nice big opening to clean through • Lots of seals to look after • Sankey/Commercial kegs • Bigger sizes • Can take a lot of pressure and abuse • Needs special tools (spear removal tool, coupler) • Small opening
  15. Filling kegs • Pre-purge • Fill with sanitiser, then push

    out with CO2 • Or use fermentation to purge • Add keg finings before filling • Fill either: • Straight through big opening • Via liquid port (may need pressure) • Scales are useful when you can’t see what’s happening!